0907Little Si climbing Guide

Welcome to Little Si, North Bend, WA


Little Si is located about 30 miles east of Seattle off of the
interstate 90. It's climbing nickname is called Exit 32 because that is
the exit you take to get to the cliff. One of the walls tucked inside
Little Si mountain is called World Wall I. You can't miss the cliff if
you hike up the trail about 30 minutes.

I've been coming to this wall now and again over the years because it
is the closest and most easily accessible cliff to me. It's not really
high in elevation but because of the forestation it can be cooler in the
summer, though the cliff does face east so mind the morning sun. In the
summer, if the sun is shining the cliff is impossible to climb on,
mostly because you sweat yourself off or the sun is baking you enough
that you are in too much pain to continue. But once the sun leaves the
cliff around noon, you can enjoy a pleasant day of climbing.

World Wall I has seen variable interest over the years. The locals
lose interest some years and regain interest in others. Therefore, the
cliff can be overwhelmingly crowded or nearly empty most days. The main
wall has a fair number of routes on it, ranging from 5.9 to 5.14. There
are about 16 distinct lines that start up from the base. A good chunck
of the main lines on the main wall have a number of extensions off of
them. From my experience, this wall has notoriously seen a lack of
concensus in the guidebooks on the exact lines that exist, the number of
bolts on the lines and the extensions and the grades.

My hope here is to help guide you through the misinformation and
clear up at least the routes that I understand at this point.  If
you climb at this wall or ever find yourself here, you may benefit from
this update.  If you discover any misinformation in my details, let
me know! 

To start, Bryan Burdo was a key contributor to the area many years
ago. I won't do justice to the many historical writeups that have been
written about the place, suffice it to say that I have come to rely on
and trust Bryan's judgement on the routes and grades. If you want to
learn about the history of the place, pick up a local copy of an Exit 32
guide book (by Garth Bruce), which was compiled with consultation of the
likes of Bryan and others.

I'll start with some extensions and compile as I go….since I
haven't done every route on the wall, there are lines I will trust to
the guide book. But, for the ones I've done, I can share some
information that may be missing. If you have any questions, please email
me at asniezek [ at] gmail . com.

Routes go from Right to Left from the approach.

Route Grade Stars Bolts Beta
Graven Image 5.12c *** 7 bouldery extension to 'False Idol.' 2 fixed gear in the roof. Chain links, no fixed gear, at the anchors. 60m rope is plenty.
False Idol 5.11d *** 7 2 fixed gear in the roof. Presumably, this climb ends at the fixed gear in the roof.
Disincarnate 5.11a *** 7 A typical steep climbing for this wall. Fun pockets and a techy finish. No fixed gear. Chain links
at the anchors
Girls in the Gym 5.10c *** 8 quick links at the anchors, a nice
recent addition
Hang it out to Dry 5.12b *** 11 2 recently fixed draws below the
chains, quick links at the anchors
Rainy Day Woman 5.12a **** 12 Fixed lockers at the anchors.
Hydrophobia 5.12c *** 14 fixed biners at the anchors, branch off
up and left after the crux on Rainy Day Woman.
         
Chronic 5.13b **** 11 Fixed draws, including on the anchor;
starts to the left of Reptiles and Amphetimines. It's the last
obvious line up the ramp before heading down to Aborigine. 60m
rope to lower
Lizard Prince 5.13b ** 2 Continue straight up from the Chronic
anchors, fixed gear at the anchors. 70m rope to lower.
Lizard King 5.13c *** 4 fixed draws only at the anchors.
Continues straight up from Lizard Prince anchors. 170ft of
climbing. Rap from Lizard Prince or Chronic anchors.
Extended Illness 5.13c *** 5 Fixed draws to the anchors of Lizard
Prince. This line cuts right at the 10th bolt of Chronic. Climb
up and right around a bulge.
Aborigine 5.11b ** 8 trickier low crux if you are short (tall people
love this climb!). Fixed gear at the anchors. 60m rope will get you down.
Technorigine 5.12c **** 4 bouldery extension to 'Abo.' Fixed gear
even at the anchors. 70m rope gets you to the ground fine.
Extendorigine 5.12c *** 4 3rd extension to 'Abo.' Goes to the top of the wall. One fixed biner at the anchors, no fixed gear. Well spaced bolts. 80m gets you to the ground or rethread at the Techno anchors.
Psycho wussy 5.11b *** 6 Scramble left to achieve a higher ledge
and avoid the scary start. Fixed gear at the anchors.
Psychosomatic 5.12d **** 10 Extension to Psycho wussy; fixed gear
even at the anchors.
Flatliner 5.13c *** 4 Extension to Psychosomatic. fixed gear
even at the anchors
Gerbil Killer 5.13a **** 7 Starts left of &#39Psycho Wussy&#39 and climbs into the crux of 'Psychosomatic.' Fixed gear on Psychosomatic and at the anchors.
Propaganda 5.12c **** 9 Sustained, stiff for the grade. Fixed
draws and anchors. Take one draw for first bolt off the ledge,
can back clean it on the way up.
Black Ice 5.13b **** 4 35m of climbing. Can just reach the
ground with a 70m rope. Fixed gear even at the anchors.
Bust the move 5.12a ** 7 Fixed gear at the crux and the anchors.
         
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About Audrey Sniezek

Audrey Sniezek is a rock climber, climbing coach, computer software/technology enthusiast and occasional baker/cook and wine connoisseur.
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