Yuji-Hans Speed attempt, January 9, 2009

Friday January 9, 2009

I am a huge Yuji fan! Couple that with Hans Florine
as his partner and you have my attention for sure! 
I think it was meeting Yuji in Siurana and sharing
with him and his accompaniments a wonderfully cooked
Paella meal by the Arboles family.

I remember stumbling in early, picking up one of the
magazines lying around (I believe it was The
Alpinist) and Yuji (though I didn't recognize him at
that time) sitting next to me engaged in
conversation with Tony Arboles. My friends and I
were just in from a climbing session and the next
thing I knew we were talking with Yuji. I think he
made a comment about the magazine I was reading, but
now I can't recall specifics. Anyway, it wasn't long
before we were invited to dinner with them. Me and
my idolitis couldn't believe I was hearing climbing
stories and learning straight from Yuji how La
Rambla was going for him. The idea that he would
travel all this way to tackle that one climb year
after year was amazing to me. His passion was clear,
his friendliness unsurpassed for being in the spot
light like he is. And, he has a family back home, I
was surprised to learn. I think when you can do what
you love and have a family that doesn't impede that,
then you really have everything. He's very fortunate
and I admired what he had made of himself with his
passion.

Having been in the climbing world for as long as I
have and even so not so deeply involved or
connected, there are names that stand out: Lynn
Hill, Robyn Erbesfield, Katie Brown, Timy Fairfield
(the list goes on) and of course Hans Florine. I
remember meeting him at a competition in Sacramento
back in 2002. It was my first ABS competition and I
remember being bummed that in the end they bumped me
into Open, where I finished last. But, I recall how
in awe I was to see Hans in the flesh, climbing.

Meeting the people from the magazines who's
accomplishments surpass anything I could dream of
doing, made them come alive for me. Their
personality and the interaction changed everything.
Although they probably won't remember who I am or
where they met me, I'll always remember these
interactions. And, now that I'm out in the public
eye, it's a reminder to me to leave favorable
impressions whenever possible. You never know who is
looking up to you.

So, my little background on Yuji and Hans aside,
this is what you really want to see: Yuji and Hans
attempting to reclaim a speed ascent of the Nose. 
The full footage is to be released by
Masters of
Stone
in the spring. I saw this come by my desk
via

Climbing.com
's newsletter. You can sign up on
their site to receive them, too.  There are 3
parts you can watch. (I can't wait to watch the
rest)! I was on the edge of my seat smiling ear to
ear in anxious anticipation as I watched the 3 parts
(part
1
,

part 2
, and

part 3
). Just amazing…these guys are just
amazing.  And don't miss the part where Yuji
holds his entire body weight with one hand on a tiny
little RP 60+ feet above his last pro.  "If
this fails, he decks onto Texas Flake." The King
Swing is pretty amazing, too, Enjoy!

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About Audrey Sniezek

Audrey Sniezek is a rock climber, climbing coach, computer software/technology enthusiast and occasional baker/cook and wine connoisseur.
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