Hueco, December 7, 2007

Friday December 7, 2007 

I'm sitting in our favorite coffee shop in El
Paso, Tx catching up on internet. After the Red
River Gorge, Mike and I went south to Tennessee to
check out some local climbing and hang out with
friends. We climbed a few days at the Obed (Tierreny
wall, South Clear wall and Y12 wall). Each wall has
different characteristics and something unique to
enjoy about them.


tierreny wall, obed
Tierreny
wall starts a bit slabby and has steep angled roof
climbing at the top. There are more slopey and flat
holds on the slab parts and cracks, crimps and
flakes in the roofs. It's a really impressive wall.

South Wall has more technical climbing but
includes an area with completely horizontal roofs.
The two notable climbs on that wall are Rage
and Maximum Overdrive, both onsighted by
Mike.


mike born on the 4th
Y12
had more powerful climbing with steeper angles and
is home to the classic prow Born on the 4th of
July,
also onsighted by Mike. Friends and hosts
for our time in Tennessee, Craig and Noel, took us
out to Y12 on Sunday. Noel's first available day to
climb in 2 weeks. We warmed up on some fun 11's that
had real moves on them but otherwise climbed super
well. Then, Noel got on her project Barbed Wire
and Lingire.
She had previouslynoe,l barbed wire, obed
redpointed the line right of it, Tapeworm
and encouraged me to give that climb a try so I did.
I found the bottom crux on that climb to be really
powerful and a bit tricky. When I heard all of the
Tennessee girls (that would include Karissa and
Jess) had sent it, I was really impressed. Another
climb on that wall, Odyssey, was much
steeper and had a roof section on it with a short
headwall after. Intimidated by it, I went up and to
my surprise, made the roof part in one go. Roofs and
super steep climbing are not my forte so I was
definitely out of element here. What a great place
to practice, though! I really enjoyed it and would
enjoy going back to explore the place more. Noel
tells me there are many other areas and some still
to be explored and each a bit different from the
others. Very cool! I'm glad we took the time to
check it out.

Just after arriving in Tennessee, I had some
problems with my neck and shoulders. It seized
pretty bad that I very nearly begged a chiropractor
to see me for a quick fix. Fortunately, there was a
quick fix and that area calmed down, but I was very
aware that I needed to get to El Paso and re-start
my treatment from last year. I pretty much told Mike
I would fly myself there if I had to but I was going
to El Paso as quickly as I could. I couldn't put it
off any longer. So, Mike opted out of exploring too
much more of Tennessee rock and after a brief visit
to Rock Town on our way out, we drove straight to El
Paso.

This worked out well for us both, in the end. I
got in right away with Dr. Muniz, whom I highly
recommend if you ever need any physical therapy or
chiropractic care. Mike flew out this morning for
Vancouver and is headed to Finland for business. I
get to start stick to a treatment program and
benefit from Hueco Tanks just nearby. Friends Rachel
and Jordan are still hanging around so at least I am
not alone.

Although we arrived 2 days ago, now, yesterday
was my first day bouldering. After the first day of
treatment, my muscles literally stopped functioning
they were so tired. I was expecting yesterday to be
a complete waste but wanted to boulder and to my
surprise, I was bouldering really well. Some of my
'projects' from last year felt really easy and went
quickly (I nearly sent Mushroom Roof first
go!). My muscles were still not responding well and
I could tell I was tired so I picked problems I
could 'train' on. I was hoping to get my core and
biceps working! πŸ™‚ It was a really fun day, just as
fun as I remembered it. Mike was on fire as well,
sending Dark Ages, a V11 on his 2nd day
out.  This was definitely a better start than
last year for us both.

Jordan wasn't climbing yesterday due to skin
issues and Rachel was determined to give Baby
Face
another go. She has the entire boulder
problem dialed up to her 'crux,' where she falls
apart. It's a big move and the last move before the
lip. Baby Face is a bit of a highball
problem so it may be she is just scared of making
the move. I can understand that. Baby Face
is really hard for me, even to start on, because I
am at full span from the go. I don't think I'll
project it, but it is a good line so I may go back
to it, esp if she's going to be on it anyway. I'm
just lucky she is psyched for this and Mushroom
Roof,
which she is super close on too, because
she wants to extend her stay a few more days to give
her more time to get on them again. πŸ™‚ Her skin is
pretty bad as well, right now. Seriously, I don't
think she or Jordan really rest. I think they climb
like every day and I think that's hard core! πŸ™‚

Last night Mike and I got a hotel room (super
good deal for what we paid–two room suite with 2
tv's and pillow top beds) and I may have lost my
jump drive with all of the photos from yesterday on
it. I'll have to see if I can find it in my things
or wait until I can get them from Mike, who has a
copy. Otherwise there would be more photos to enjoy.

About Audrey Sniezek

Audrey Sniezek is a rock climbing athlete, climbing coach, computer software/technology enthusiast and occasional enjoys baking, cooking and fine wine.
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