Climbing at the Red, a brief look

well, to start, i’ve caved in to peer pressure and signed up on 8a.nu. you can find all of the nitty gritty climbing details about me and mike there. i won’t go into each climb i’ve done or anything like that here. there’s too much jargon that not everyone can share in, but that doesn’t mean i won’t write about climbing. 🙂
our time here at the red is coming to an end. after thanksgiving, we are heading further south to Tennessee. we’ve been given names of places to check out on our way south like Obed, Little River canyon, Foster City, Little Rock city, and naturally Horsepens 40. So much to check out and so little time. 🙂 the weather has turned cold, again, and today is rest day 2 for me. if the weather holds as forecast today, i think i have at least 5 more climbing days before i head north for the holiday. this is good news because i finally have a project i really want to get and it gives me a few days to try for it and possibly check out the last of the areas i have on my list to visit like ‘Left Flank and military wall,’ ‘the farside,’ and if time allows, another visit to ‘Torrent’ for a run on ‘Racer X.’ Meanwhile, i need to leave some time for ‘Resurrection’ at ‘the motherlode’.
btw, Resurrection scares me! first, it’s super hard for a 12c. next, the run out at the top is sca-aa-ry! here is a link to someone’s video of their send to give you an idea for the climb: http://www.getbeta.com/rock_climbing_routes.asp?clmid=1016. i won’t spew beta here, but i finally figured out a sequence for the first bolt (if that gives you any idea for how hard this thing is for me!). on friday, i finally made it up near the chains for the first time. anyway, the fall from the chains is huge! and i got scared so i took the fall mid-way, just to take it. having done full-heinous and taken that fall at the top, once, you would think i would be over it, but apparently, i’m not. 🙂 i’m going to have to get some real focus and nerve to push to the chains on the redpoint burn, if i’m lucky to make it that far in one go. it will be the hardest 12c send for me and quite possibly my proudest if i get it, and i hope to before we leave. only thing is, i get so worked from the route that i need more than 1 day of recovery before getting back on it. 😦 ah, well, that is when the opportunity opens for other walls. 🙂
oh, and the best news is that mike and i bought our tickets for australia! woohoo!!
finally, the gang at Lago Linda’s will be slowly dwindling. friday night we had a fish fry and everyone gathered for a good time. two from the canadian gang arranged for a tune as entertainment. it was super! i enjoyed it so much that i have added the lyrics here. what you need to keep in mind when reading the lyrics (i’ll have to try to write out the tune for you another time, unfortunately) are the following:
the title of this song comes from an Austrian climber’s response to the question ‘why do you climb?’
i’ve already told you a bit about the climb ‘Resurrection,’
there is another climb called Tuna Town (an even bigger fall from the chains than Resurrection! and waaaay steeper).
Omaha beach and Flour Power are climbs that are in the Madness cave: super steep, lots of fun and very hard. these are climbs people in our group were trying while here.
‘Redpoint’ means you were able to climb the route without falling, hanging, or otherwise not climbing from the ground to the chains in one push. it also means you’ve been on the route before (any number of times >1)
‘Sending’ is another way to say one accomplished a climb (could be first try, 2nd try, but doesn’t really suggest the number of attemps, just that they did it).
So, here are the lyrics…i”m sure the artists will post the video somewhere soon and i’ll point you there to hear it for yourself sometime.
I Climb to Feel my Body
by Kevin Wilkonson and Jill Hollywood Funk
I climb to feel my body
I like to feel my body
but sometimes it doesn’t perform
if only i could keep my hands warm
we’re numbing out in this cold
i can’t feel any one of these holds
we rested on the sunniest days
why are we climbing in the rain anyway
the motherlode is the place to be
tomorrow you will see
—refrain—
Resurrected by tuna town
i didn’t get my redpoint down
took a big whip and barely missed the ground
flour power on omaha beach
shut down by my short reach
but i’ll come back to try it again
bah bah buh bah bah bah (repeat)
loving life everyday
i just love to go out and play
Lago Linda’s is the place to stay
surrounded by all my friends
i never want this trip to end
i still have all my climbs to send
—refrain
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About Audrey Sniezek

Audrey Sniezek is a rock climber, climbing coach, computer software/technology enthusiast and occasional baker/cook and wine connoisseur.
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One Response to Climbing at the Red, a brief look

  1. Kathy says:

    Impressive and awesome list of climbs Audrey!  If you can, post more pictures!  Would love to see them!!!
     
     

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