I thought I wouldn’t compete in another bouldering competition this season but after all the hype about Krankenstein (mostly from Mike since he was the ‘Chief Routesetter’) I decided to sign up nearly at the last minute. 🙂 If I hadn’t signed up I was looking forward to helping out and learning more about competition routesetting from everyone working the comp; but after having competed, I have to say I am really glad I entered!
First, I have enjoyed competing in Canada (having done this twice, now). I have a lot of fun and the people are really nice (thanks, Anna, for always making me feel welcome when I visit). There are a lot of strong, talented climbers there! It was cool to have several other women from the Seattle area up there competing as well: Sydney, Mikalla and Meg (Ellen will remember to register early next time ). It was definitely a good time.
For qualifiers, the 5 problems were good. We had 4 minutes per problem and 4 minutes rest in-between problems. The only real critique I have for that part of the competition was that it wasn’t clear where to go when it was time to climb and I know I wasted some precious seconds trying to find the next problem and the judge for that problem. I don’t think it hurt my overall performance, but it would have eased my nerves a bit to have smoother transitions.
Finals were run the evening of the same day. This time we had 4 problems with 5 minutes a problem and 5 minutes rest. I qualified in 8th position out of 10 qualifying women so that meant for the finals running order I would be climbing in 3rd position.
The first finals problem was pretty technical and I could hear that the 2 girls before me had both sent the problem early in the 5 minutes so I guessed it to be a very doable route. Afer sending it first try, I was relieved to know that at least I was keeping up with the previous 2 girls. Also, I figured everyone after me would flash that problem so I knew I had to try hard on the next 3 problems to separate myself from the pack.
Problem #2 was really fun, but I couldn’t stick the last move. We were being scored by Zones so it didn’t matter that I tagged the last hold or established on the 2nd to last hold. The best I got for that problem was the Bonus hold mid-section. 😦 After 2 attempts to send the problem, I threw in the towel and took the extra rest and waited for problem #3.
As soon as I saw Problem #3 I knew it would be tricky for me to send. The move going to the 2nd to the last hold was a bit scary and definitely not a move that is my strength (got to practice that kind of movement more!). I got to the Bonus hold mid-route pretty easily and set myself up to do the scary move all on my first attempt. I must have hung up there for several seconds contemplating my courage to attempt and make the move. Finally, I decided I had to try for it (I had to do something and that did not include not trying the move). I missed. 😦 I didn’t bother attempting it again. I figured best shot I had to do well now (since I had no idea how the other girls were doing) was to save my energy and focus on the last problem.
When I got to Problem #4, I knew it was tricky but I also thought I could pull it off. I was tired and I fussed a bit at the start. When it came to the big move on that route (the move just before the Bonus hold), I just couldn’t stick it. In hindsight I think I was too tired to think right because when I tried the problem on the first attempt the following day, I made the big move without hesitation. No Bonus hold for me on this route so I was a bit disappointed and worried how that would affect my overall performance.
When I finished, there were a few girls left to compete, including our two top competitors for the night: Sydney McNair and Vikiki Weldon. Sydney flashed every problem and Vikki flashed 3 of the 4. For problem #3, Sydney made that scary move look easy and for problem #4, without hesitation both Sydney and Vikki gave a crowd pleasing send with Vikki ending the night by toping out.
Open Females Final Results (Full results can be found at http://www.edgeclimbing.com/)
- Sydney McNair
- Vikki Weldon
- Nicolette Honson (Nikki and I tied for 3rd but she beat me in qualifiers, which solidified her 3rd position in the finals)
- Audrey Sniezek
- Chelsea Raymond
- Noella Nykyforuk
- Mikalla Leonardi
- Meghan Jones
- Clarrie Lam
- Meg Coyne ——————————
- Jelisa Dunbar
- Celeste Wall
- Noelle Mayes
- Caitlin Pinchin
- Nani Woollings
All of the Seattle competitors made top 10: Sydney, Audrey, Mikalla, and Meg. There is a rumor of photos from the competition being available soon. If I get a copy, I will post a few here to complete this post. There’s a DVD trailer out on http://www.goonish.tv/ with some teaser footage from the competition. I think it’s $10 to order the full DVD.
Finally, a huge thanks to everyone who worked Krankenstein! Setting routes until 3am the night before and running tweaks up to competition time shows the dedication and commitment of the ‘staff’. I enjoyed the problems and thought finals ran smoother than qualifyiers. I hope by now everyone has caught up on their much needed sleep 🙂 and I look forward to future opportunities to climb with everyone.